The Story Behind The Goodman Jacket
When men swayed women's fashion choices, women, in turn, left their mark on men's attire. Thus, the evolution of this men’s jacket was shaped by both. Does it still matter?
Fran Lebowitz of New York has long been a muse for both men and women, but to us, Tonne Goodman stands as a legendary figure. Responsible for some of the most striking fashion images in the past two decades, she has rubbed shoulders with industry titans like Diana Vreeland and Anna Wintour. She charted a course many in the fashion world only dream of — starting as a model and transitioning into a significant editorial role at Vogue, shaping American fashion and the identity of the All-American brand.
Tonne Goodman's distinctive dressing style inspired the creation of the Goodman Jacket.
The editor, now renowned for her ‘uniform’ of white jeans, Italian loafers, and silk scarves, has created a personal signature through her sartorial choices. There’s much wisdom to glean from her approach. As Lauren Indvik of the Financial Times once wrote, ‘Pinpointing your personal style is about finding the (probably rather narrow) overlap between what suits you and what you like.’ She advises taking stock of your frequently worn outfits, as these are likely the pieces that make you feel confident, and would eventually be pieces that you feel comfortable wearing over and over again.
Much like a sport jacket, the Goodman Jacket is a versatile silhouette you can reach for time and time again.
Indvik entreats us to ‘repeat, repeat, repeat.’ Buying similar shapes and cuts of clothing makes your accessories more versatile… I have several of each item in various colours, but they are cut similarly, allowing me to pair them with boots or flats, add a statement necklace for different occasions, and choose the appropriate weight for the season.’ This repetition in tailoring forms, prime example in The Anthology’s case, is why classic styles endure — they are familiar, reliable, and universally flattering.
Rear view of the Goodman Jacket. It is cut longer, ventless, and features bellowed waist pockets that are visible only from certain angles.
Tonne’s consistent personal style and wisdom inspired a design that embodies her modus operandi: a jacket based on a sport jacket, yet casual and poised, something you would always return to. ‘It evolved into something even simpler... there's no decision-making, no second-guessing. They are utterly reliable and carefree in the literal sense—you don’t have to worry about them. And the Charvet scarf is always with me,’ says Tonne Goodman.
Samuel Beckett, Paris, April, 1979. Photograph by Richard Avedon. © The Richard Avedon Foundation.
With Beckett's hands tucked into the pockets, pulling down the entire garment, the writer's lean figure seemed almost swallowed by the fabric. By omitting the traditional tailoring chest dart, we aimed to achieve a similarly straight silhouette throughout the body with the Goodman Jacket.
Pablo Picasso, Paris, France, circa 1950. © Sanford Roth/Photo Researchers History/Getty Images.
The inspiration behind the Goodman Jacket draws from this photograph of Pablo Picasso in his seated form, showcasing a jacket that combines the refinement of tailoring. The artist's garment is complete with collars and lapels, with the notion of ease and carefreeness that only structureless garments can offer.
Most of her jackets cover her seats, and they bear great substance, weight, and broadness on the upper. For those worn slightly oversized, they are extra beautiful. It just has a certain, indescribable at ease-ness and aura at the same time.
Bill Cunningham's iconic bleu de travail worker's jacket served as a pivotal inspiration for us, driving the creation of a casual tailored jacket that embodies both elegance and sturdiness.
The inspiration doesn’t stop there. Her close friend, the legendary Bill Cunningham, also left an indelible mark. By combining their influences, we return to the essence of the blue French worker's jacket: the hardwearing attributes, the beautiful fade from wear and tear, all encapsulated in what we now present as the Goodman Jacket.
Goodman, apart from the adaption of the name Tonne Goodman, a partial homage, also a coincidence, Goodman also refers to a title equivalent to Mr., a (good) husband. A Goodman Jacket is gentle, unfussy, thus unconstructed, while being crafted in heavy-duty cloth. Goodman also means battle protection. Its trusty properties and durability is something to hold accountable, because ‘style over fashion, and function and versatility above all.’
Straddling the half-world between refined and slouchy, the Goodman Jacket captures the essence of modern day’s pared-down tailoring. Like the Lazyman Jacket's casual elegance, the structureless Goodman Jacket offers an additional touch of structure and form by using heavier fabrics. It drapes, gives shape, and its notched lapels and patch pockets offers a nod to timeless tailoring. Unlined and cut longer with fuller form, this jacket melds the best of a traditional blazer and a chore coat. Forgoing a chest pocket, it features unique double side waist pockets that highlight perfect symmetry, accented by a small lapel loop.
The coarse two-by-two basketweave creates a robust textured appearance, ensuring the Goodman Jacket stands out with distinct character.
Crafted from a modified heavyweight linen from one of our regular Japanese looms, this jacket boasts a coarse basketweave that reflects both tactile and visual sensation. The robust texture adds structure and enhances the overall look, making the Goodman Jacket a trusty alternative to the essential sport jacket.
