Bigger The Shirt, Wider The Trousers
It's amusing how every garment christened with a 'something-man' suffix seems to carry a metaphor or poetic meaning. But for our new Bigman shirt, the name is as basic and straightforward as it gets. It’s simply the most direct and instinctive narrative we could conceive.
Simple and straightforward, the name gave it away. This is a big shirt. It fits straight, wide, louche, and roomy, complete with dual large pockets. It’s a true representation of utilitarian fundamentalism. This work shirt flows effortlessly over and under other layers. Designed with a straight cut and generous volume, it ensures freedom of movement and unparalleled comfort. We recommend sticking to your usual size for that perfect oversized fit.
Drawing inspiration from the classic mid-century work shirt, the Bigman shirt emphasises a relaxed, straight fit. The large chest pockets underscore its practical nature. Crafted from sturdy textiles with double-needle stitching, the reinforced seams offer both durability and a striking design detail, making it perfect for heavy-duty use. The point collar—a hallmark of workman shirts—along with the cat eye buttons, adds a touch of traditional elegance, making this piece a true classic. This versatile shirt layers comfortably, whether over or under other garments.
Continuing our work with cotton and linen, we experiment with various weights, thicknesses, and structures, honing our craft to find the best materials for transeasonal clothing.
The versatility of pure cotton is endless. Historically, we've used cotton in various unique finishes apart from the most conventional ones: brushed, jersey, and flannel, and more. Surprisingly, corduroys and moleskins are also cotton, despite their perceived weight and winter suitability. We've always appreciated nep textures, which form delightful slubs. For the Bigman shirts, we believe this rugged texture adds a sense of character and robustness. We use a special nep yarn, creating a robust textile with charming knots and inconsistencies. This results in a grainy texture, offering both tactile and visual interest. Paying homage to traditional workwear, this textured cotton mimics chambray’s look while avoiding the typical workers' blue, delivering a masculine yet sophisticated tonal feel. Initially, it feels sturdy, but it will soften beautifully over time.
It is hence the Slate Grey, combined with its unique texture. We affectionately nicknamed it ‘kuro goma latte’. It means black sesame latte, a beloved drink in the Far East, especially in Japan, where this cloth originates. Speaking with the owner of the individual weavers, his kind smirk conveyed a mutual cultural understanding. It was a pleasant acknowledgement.
The off-white proposition is something we get adamant about, especially regarding the colour. It has to be a warm white, almost ivory but not too tinted, as anything else would appear dingy. Achieving this precise shade is challenging with plain weave and pure cotton, not for lack of trying, but due to the material’s inherent nature. However, with linen aiding the composition, the look is elevated.
Our creators are aware that the linen-blend as a transeasonal piece may alienate some as temperatures drop. Nevertheless, we believe that texture in off-white is essential, akin to a chef’s kiss. Our goal was to create a fabric similar to voile, offering a delicate translucency without being risqué. We adore the criss-cross textures that linen blends provide. Much like a ‘linen’ watch dial in the 60s, inspired by the fabric, where soft crosshatched patterns are ‘engraved’ on the cloth, giving texture and personality. Frankly, this material is more robust and heavier. When layered, it is the distinctive textures that stand out more than the actual breathability. But if this piece is too late for the season, consider it early next spring.
Bigger the shirt, wider the trousers. This season, we continue to explore more generous silhouettes, broadening the sensation of the house of The Anthology. The Wide Trousers are the new 'leisure trousers' cut, featuring a free-flowing silhouette that transitions effortlessly from a straight wide leg to a bootcut, exuding presence and drama. They showcase a soft, unstructured 'Hollywood' waist, offering a moderate high-rise fit that perfectly complements their wide-legged design. Crafted without waistbands and double forward pleats, these trousers sit higher on the waist without restricting comfort, providing a liberating fit.
The fabric is an exceptional duck canvas crafted from a blend of cotton, ramie, and linen. The predominant cotton content provides structure, while the linen and silk-like ramie enhance the smooth handle and moisture-wicking properties, adding a hint of silkiness without the fragility of fine silks. This distinctive weave stands apart from traditional robust duck canvas, offering a unique texture with no compromise on comfort.
It is identical to that Oxford weave, except that it adheres to the choice of one colour instead of bringing the warp and weft in different colour notes. The raised textures creates a fine bumpy handle which is tactily exciting, and gives very nice texture to the overall. Also, because of textures, over time with friction against other objects, the development of patina becomes more graceful, giving a sense of beautiful aging.
