The Anthology x Permanent Style Polo Coat in Herringbone Donegal Tweed
In Fall/Winter 2021, we are expanding on the idea of the theme ‘Illusive Black & White’, meaning black and white but disrupted by a hint of non-monochromatic colours. We once again have a cross-disciplinary project with Simon Crompton, leading authority of luxury menswear, writer and editor of Permanent Style blog. If the previous Camelhair Polo Coat was about paying homage to the historical piece made by the greatest tailors and fashion designers from the past century, this is a piece to commemorate us. This is a special collaboration between one of the most respectable menswear writers of our era and a creative house that relentlessly bridge old-world tailoring and modern menswear together — resulting in the fruition of a full-blown craftsmanship showcase piece. We furthered the idea of a traditional Polo Coat to an embodiment of tailoring modernity by bringing a classic silhouette and modern colours into the same equation, also with a unique artistic interpretation that goes off on a tangent for a little unusual twist.
What is the highlight of this artefact?
An overcoat has its formidable importance. Commonly perceived as the garment of the highest priority throughout the winter, some also see it as an investment piece. It takes up the majority of a dresser's body mass. Not only does it makes a phenomenal impression while staying outdoors, but it also contributes as a crucial body-warmer. As a statement piece, no compromises should be made. Our team has spent years finessing craft. We transcend beyond bespoke tailoring and pass on the spirit of handcrafting integrity into the world of ready-to-wear, ensuring every fine piece is to be handwrought at its optimum level. To learn more about the craft and details of this piece, visit our previous Polo Coat feature page.
Black & White Herringbone is an ultimate classic throughout fashion history. It is also one of our house staples since the beginning of our The Anthology's journey. The prolonging idea of bringing one of our house signatures to the medium of an outerwear piece has been way overdue. Having been able to enjoy the success of our signature is a blessing, but as creatives, or solely conscientious designers who live up to our workmanship ethos, we never rest on our laurels. We strive to be erratic but relevant, ensuring the design world constantly get revitalised with synergy. After nine months in development, we successfully created an impressive colour scheme with a renowned Irish mill that has unparalleled features as compared to the typical Salt & Pepper (meaning black & white), a standard formula that features high-contrasts.
What is the unforeseen twist in terms of cloth?
It is the 'illusive' black & white, as said, which is not quite the monochrome colours. Composed of grey and deep solid brown that is almost black, conforming the smudged faint lines of a brushstroke, the never perfectly right black. To keep up with the tradition of Irish donegal tweeds, we specifically injected a secret hint of cream, latte and pastel blue flecks that seamlessly blends in with the softened tones of the pattern.
In terms of fabric handle, it is, surprisingly, not your presumed wool tweed that carries a rough, hairy texture. The implementation of 25% Merino Wool is not for no reason. It completely changes the game of tweed, elevates the tactility with a slightly finer, lighter handle considering it is a heavyweight 865gm (30oz) coating piece.
The fabrication also contributes to the visual texture. As we study the grey areas and contrasts, the finer woollen finish of Merino wool has offered certain attributes to this specific cloth, taking the edge off the usual sharp contrasts of the strictly black & white.
What door does this modification open to? A lot more options in terms of styling. The lovely thing about using neutrals avoids conflicts with its counterpart, whether it be a pungently pigmented jacket or a traditional coloured suit. Having tweed lending its natural hairy textures, it fosters a harmonious feel to the general garment, brings down the harshness of colours for a superior nuance.
Softer tailoring and softer aesthetics come hand in hand. To learn more, check out this artefact now.
