The Eveningwear Crack Code
If you feel like eveningwear is like charting unknown waters because it’s different from usual dailywear tailoring, you're not alone. A passionate friend once remarked he read a ‘menswear handbook’ spans over six hundred pages, teeming with complex and often cryptic rules. But fear not, dear reader, for we are here to elucidate these nuances and to drop you some universal language. We understand eveningwear is an area where one must tread carefully, for a misstep could render you quite ridiculous. Yet, once you grasp the fundamentals, you'll have mastered an entirely new sartorial dialect.
Eveningwear is occasion wear—a time to dress with splendour, not slackness. Some may have a neglected garment lurking at the back of their wardrobe, rarely worn and even less frequently cared for. This, however, is far from The Anthology’s philosophy. To honour both your host and the occasion, eveningwear demands earnest attention. While it can often be serious, there are moments ripe for creativity. Start small, learn the rules before you break them, and our foundational pieces from 'The Interval' collection will serve you admirably. They may not be the most creative pieces, but some rules are timeless and eternally relevant. Occasionally, it’s wiser to err on the side of caution than to risk looking foolish. So, learn about our crack codes to eveningwear, just in time for the festive season.
Eveningwear is steeped in tradition. Thankfully with tremendous bespoke tailoring experience and an archive of patterns borrowed from our bespoke side, we’ve mastered the balance between presence, dynamism, statement, and elegance in our tuxedo and dinner jackets.
Shawl Lapel
The shawl lapel’s dynamic curve strikes a balance of presence. It's somewhat unconventional yet still classic. Many seek to stand out in formal wear, and this provides a way to do so without appearing gaudy. Be it a ball, an opera, or a posh party, it's easier to mark the occasion when your evening attire is distinct from your work wardrobe.
Peak Lapels
Peak lapels carry myriad connotations, from the bold designs of Tom Ford to traditional styles, radiating confidence and sharpness, occasionally veering into arrogance. Though it’s a stereotype, we strive to transcend it. The sharp, angular lines are quintessential for evening wear. Our ready-to-wear model, with its 4x1 double-breasted configuration, boasts a long-sweeping lapel that accentuates the silhouette’s glamour, highlighting the details of the evening shirt beneath.
For those seeking the ultimate classic, a simple one-button design is ideal. If this is your first black tie ensemble, or perhaps a step up from your previous attire, this is the piece to choose.
Both black pieces feature satin facings for high contrast, enhancing their visual impact. This isn’t a novel concept—it’s traditional, but it endures for good reason.
In many respects, modern technology surpasses the past, but in clothing, this is often not the case. Traditional garments drape and perform better. Much like film photography, the decadence of eveningwear is a forgotten art we are eager to revive.
Simplicity and grandeur in one go is scarcity, but can be achieved. The matte, woolly barathea 16oz cloth is our top choice. We will explore summer fabrics in future discussions.
Let’s discuss shirts.
Bib front shirt
This is the most classic choice. Studs are a logical accompaniment to black tie, offering a rare opportunity to wear jewellery without being ostentatious. Sentimental or romantic ones would pull out a set belonged to their granddads or dads, or partners, along with some delicate cufflinks to go with.
Pleated front shirt
This is the most flamboyant. Much like theatre, it is more costume-like, lively, and certainly more daring. If you are inclined towards a full handcrafted extravaganza, this is your pick. It also makes for an excellent conversation piece among fellow clothing enthusiasts.
Fly front shirt
This is the most understated. Concealed, minimal, and unassuming, it serves its purpose with a pragmatic and minimalist approach. Enough said.
Formalwear is one instance where we prefer tacked-on sleeve buttons. Cufflinks and a peek of a folded sleeve add contrast, conveying eveningwear glamour distinct from our daily attire.
Black silky socks, or thinner ones, should never show your calves. Ensure they are long enough. For footwear, clean oxfords, plain or cap-toed, or slippers or opera pumps for a special occasion would be our choice. Just because, oxfords are not as ‘In’ even though menswear and tailoring aren't trend-driven, but we think they are on their ‘ebb’ for now. Most importantly, a self-tie bow tie with a distinct design language and presence. The waistband should always be concealed by a cummerbund. These pieces, crafted by our friend Mickael from La Bowtique Bowties, can last a lifetime with proper care.
Photography once again by Alex Natt, all shot in film.
Revisit our Eveningwear Lookbook 'The Interval’. Also Shop the collection for the festive season. A final reminder that all made-to-order shirts ordered on or before December 3 GMT would be delivered before Christmas Day. So do place your order if you intend to wear them for your upcoming Christmas or New Years Eve celebrations!