Observed At Pitti Uomo 107
Florence is a marvellous place, a fantastical city renowned for its incredible museums and rich history of artistic developments. Over the past half-century, especially during January and June, this historic town becomes the epicentre for the world's most stylish and influential men, who gather to shape the realm of tailoring and menswear. Pitti Uomo, the biannual menswear trade show, is a beacon of inspiration where we observe trends and preferences. Having skipped the summer season in favour of better weather in our hometowns, we are once again here for the winter edition—Pitti 107. Great minds often think alike, and creative, intellectual conversations from previous seasons culminate in shared outcomes. Here are the insights we gleaned, which we believe will set the trends for the next season.
Raglan-Sleeved Coats Continue to Reign, and Full-Length Coats Remain for the Drama
As menswear has trended towards a more casual aesthetic, set-in, heavily structured sleeves persist, but the predominant direction is towards softer, more fluid silhouettes. Soft shoulders, akin to raglan sleeves, dominate as the preferred coating style. This silhouette largely dictates the formality of the piece. Our 'A' Wrap Coats embody this aesthetic. Initially released in our house-designed cavalry twill, we now offer special orders under Artefacts, featuring unique, limited-edition pieces crafted from deadstock or vintage fabrics. Four coats of the same silhouette are presented, each showcasing a member’s fabric choice, extending the design language this universal silhouette can offer.
Buzz wears the grey herringbone 'A' Wrap Coat, featuring unique faint overchecks of yellow and blue, a Fox Brothers deadstock piece. Robert dons a plain navy cashmere version, while Willy opts for plain taupe cashmere, and Daniel chooses the cashmere Donegal.
To create the desired drama, these coats must extend beyond a certain length. Some may feel self-conscious about the relationship between height and coat length, but the truth is, regardless of height, this style of coat needs to be a certain length to achieve an elongated look. Our preferred length is just over the knees, balancing functionality with trending aesthetics.
Enjoy our current ‘A’ Wrap Coat propositions, and keep an eye out for some important updates to our Artefacts series in the coming weeks.
Materialisation Exchange Between Designs
Exploring beyond our ready-to-wear offerings, we present Casentino for the Polo Coat, the 'A' Wrap Coat in Teddy Brown, and a tweed broken hairline Goodman Jacket, where custom creations transcend mere fit to impart distinct meanings to each garment.
Traditionally a symbol of elegance, the Polo Coat undergoes a transformation with Casentino fabric, infusing a playful touch while preserving its historic essence. This alteration shifts its setting and usage, offering a fresh perspective on a classic piece.
The 'A' Wrap Coat, inherently sleek, reveals its versatility through various custom trials. Crafted from the same fluffy, hairy British wool used for this season's Polo Coat, it adopts a more casual demeanour, pairing seamlessly with straight-leg chinos or jeans. Conversely, when this wool is applied to the 'A' Wrap Coat, it elevates to a grander, more substantial statement piece, transforming into a bold winter coat rather than the intended layering top layer.
The Goodman Jacket, experimented with linen, camelhair, and tweed, showcases its adaptability. This unique medium becomes an intriguing canvas for materialisation, demonstrating the jacket's capacity to evolve and inspire. It oscillates between the adventurous spirit of a wise man’s jacket and the intellectual abstract painter’s daily wear. From our celebrated photographer Milad Abedi’s ready-to-wear camelhair piece to our co-founder Buzz’s tweed option, these garments convey different structural integrity and performance on the body.
Creative Black Tie and Casualisation of Eveningwear Attire
As many style-driven evenings have become less stringent about adhering strictly to traditional rules, we believe there is now leeway and flexibility to embrace more fun and creativity. These events are not just celebratory gatherings where people express joy; they also represent culture in a significant way. Nonetheless, we still respect the most formal and traditional settings dedicated solely to black tie attire. Ultimately, it's about understanding the 'time and place'.
For those interested in delving deeper into black tie rules and innovative tips for creative black tie attire, we recommend checking out our previous articles: The Eveningwear Crack Code and The A Team's Eveningwear Lookbook .
Tartan dinner jackets are a thing, thanks to the Duke. Drawing inspiration from Scottish traditions, Buzz showcases a whimsical 'Asian plaid' with his sport jacket turned dinner jacket, paired with an eveningwear studded shirt, bow tie, and cummerbund by La Bowtique Bowties to complete the look. Daniel presents a similar take but with a neutral palette plaid, evoking a more American, Ralph Lauren-inspired aesthetic. Meanwhile, Arvin, being the playful character he is, opts to use his white sport jacket as a substitute for a traditional tuxedo jacket, adding his unique touch to the ensemble.
The Western Twist and Pop of Colours
‘Yeehaw, cowboy!’, infusing Western elements into European tailoring is akin to the concept of East Meets West. The Anthology meticulously curates fine things, drawing inspiration from all corners of the world where we deem fit and appropriate. The incorporation of Western belts, distressed denims, cowboy boots with sleek Cuban heels, and buffalo checks adds a distinctive flair to our looks.
Always remember this rule of thumb: Let one or, at most, two components of your outfit stand out. It's essential not to overdo it by making all elements compete for attention, as it can lead to a confused visual message. Much like in fine art and photography, distinguished and skillful dressers understand the importance of having a focal point. A single pop of colour is often sufficient to make a statement for the day. This principle is the foundation of our style playbook.
