Observed At Pitti Uomo 107
Florence is a marvellous place, a fantastical city renowned for its incredible museums and rich history of artistic developments. Over the past half-century, especially during January and June, this historic town becomes the epicentre for the world's most stylish and influential men, who gather to shape the realm of tailoring and menswear. Pitti Uomo, the biannual menswear trade show, is a beacon of inspiration where we observe trends and preferences. Having skipped the summer season in favour of better weather in our hometowns, we are once again here for the winter edition—Pitti 107. Great minds often think alike, and creative, intellectual conversations from previous seasons culminate in shared outcomes. Here are the insights we gleaned, which we believe will set the trends for the next season.
Raglan-Sleeved Coats Continue to Reign, and Full-Length Coats Remain for the Drama
As menswear has trended towards a more casual aesthetic, set-in, heavily structured sleeves persist, but the predominant direction is towards softer, more fluid silhouettes. Soft shoulders, akin to raglan sleeves, dominate as the preferred coating style. This silhouette largely dictates the formality of the piece. Our 'A' Wrap Coats embody this aesthetic. Initially released in our house-designed cavalry twill, we now offer special orders under Artefacts, featuring unique, limited-edition pieces crafted from deadstock or vintage fabrics. Four coats of the same silhouette are presented, each showcasing a member’s fabric choice, extending the design language this universal silhouette can offer.
Buzz wears the grey herringbone 'A' Wrap Coat, featuring unique faint overchecks of yellow and blue, a Fox Brothers deadstock piece. Robert dons a plain navy cashmere version, while Willy opts for plain taupe cashmere, and Daniel chooses the cashmere Donegal.
To create the desired drama, these coats must extend beyond a certain length. Some may feel self-conscious about the relationship between height and coat length, but the truth is, regardless of height, this style of coat needs to be a certain length to achieve an elongated look. Our preferred length is just over the knees, balancing functionality with trending aesthetics.
Enjoy our current ‘A’ Wrap Coat propositions, and keep an eye out for some important updates to our Artefacts series in the coming weeks.
100% Wool
This product belongs to the Artefacts, available exclusively upon request.
A flowy and free form bathrobe-like wrap coat that combines a highly durable cloth, drapes gracefully, feels substantial yet agile, expressing a unique flair and drama with the sensibility of casual elegance.
This design is a Balmacaan style, raglan-sleeved, A-line, over-the-knee coat. It features a loose fit, dropped shoulders and a hidden placket that evokes the warm despite relaxed construction of a bathrobe, retaining an overall simplicity and minimality of design. With the inclusion of a belt and exclusion of a vent, once strapped around the waist, it adds shape to its voluminous silhouette, lending the whole affair a generous form, creating what we describe as 'drama'.
The material is a deadstock 25/26oz (700gm) woollen cloth from Fox Brothers. It features an impactful colour palette, with a comprehensive range of colours one can depict in the deep forest.
To learn more about the design, also read the full article here.
Pair this with: knitted sweaters, Flannel Pleated Wide Trousers in taupe, and Wool/Cashmere scarf.
Delivery Time: Dispatch in 6 weeks
Remark: Due to the nature of this product, it is not eligible for return/exchange/refund
100% Wool
A flowy and free form bathrobe-like wrap coat that combines a highly durable cloth, drapes gracefully, feels substantial yet agile, expressing a unique flair and drama with the sensibility of casual elegance.
This design is a Balmacaan style, raglan-sleeved, A-line, over-the-knee coat. It features a loose fit, dropped shoulders and a hidden placket that evokes the warm despite relaxed construction of a bathrobe, retaining an overall simplicity and minimality of design. With the inclusion of a belt and exclusion of a vent, once strapped around the waist, it adds shape to its voluminous silhouette, lending the whole affair a generous form, creating what we describe as 'drama'.
The material diverges from the typical shell or gabardine jacket, the usual raincoat type of material. Specially woven for us in a 25/26oz (700gm) British wool cavalry twill that highlights a visually enticing dual-twill feature, the dense weaving construction of the cloth is also naturally hard-wearing whilst water-repellent with no need for artificial coating. Matte and designed in a cool-tone brown, perfect for winter layering with a wide range of colours.
To learn more about the design, also read the full article here.
We are delighted to co-create this street slipper with Bowhill & Elliott, the last remaining slipper maker in the UK. This esteemed house still upholds the traditional ethos of "make in the back, sell in the front," with the entire shoemaking process taking place within two floors.
The upper pattern of the street slipper is meticulously hand-cut from a single piece, resulting in a more fluid and seamless design. Departing from the conventional Albert-style evening slipper, this tailored creation features a shorter vamp and eliminates sharp turns on the tongue, maintaining a consistently soft contour. This complements the natural curves of our tailoring, allowing for a more casual styling option. Imagine a standard slip-on loafer, but refined with one-piece leather and a thin, hand-attached sole that closely hugs the bottom of the shoe, exuding an understated elegance. It pairs beautifully with trousers, denim, and shorts alike.
Crafted from grained deerskin in mocha, the upper is both supple and durable, allowing for comfortable movement in this hand-lasted slipper. This design elevates the common loafer, adding an extra touch of sophistication and individuality to your ensemble.
Summary:
- UK sizing
- Mocha deerskin upper
- Single leather sole. Topy (rubber) soles are recommended to be attached by your local cobbler before wearing
If your size is not available, kindly email customercare@theanthology.net for special orders.
We are honored to create this collaboration model crafted by one of the last remaining English shoemakers, the formidable, dependable, failproof Crockett & Jones.
Hartford is an unlined two-eyelet chukka boot with minimal design, turning the spotlight on the toe shape and last. The unlined design of the shoe provides a comfortable and breathable fit, making it an excellent choice for warmer weather or for those who prefer a lighter shoe.
On a 224 last, the shoe features a slight almond-toed look, softly-rounded but not chubby, angular but not arrogant nor formal. The shoe last is also particularly well-proportioned, leaving enough room to keep the overall balance elegant with no compromises on elongating the vamp by the use of another last.
This design is done in snuff suede, with Crockett's famous city rubber sole, Goodyear welted. Box and individual shoe bags included.
Summary:
• UK sizing
• E fitting
• 224 last
• Snuff suede upper
• Unlined
• City rubber sole
If your size is not available, kindly email customercare@theanthology.net for special orders.
Materialisation Exchange Between Designs
Exploring beyond our ready-to-wear offerings, we present Casentino for the Polo Coat, the 'A' Wrap Coat in Teddy Brown, and a tweed broken hairline Goodman Jacket, where custom creations transcend mere fit to impart distinct meanings to each garment.
Traditionally a symbol of elegance, the Polo Coat undergoes a transformation with Casentino fabric, infusing a playful touch while preserving its historic essence. This alteration shifts its setting and usage, offering a fresh perspective on a classic piece.
The 'A' Wrap Coat, inherently sleek, reveals its versatility through various custom trials. Crafted from the same fluffy, hairy British wool used for this season's Polo Coat, it adopts a more casual demeanour, pairing seamlessly with straight-leg chinos or jeans. Conversely, when this wool is applied to the 'A' Wrap Coat, it elevates to a grander, more substantial statement piece, transforming into a bold winter coat rather than the intended layering top layer.
The Goodman Jacket, experimented with linen, camelhair, and tweed, showcases its adaptability. This unique medium becomes an intriguing canvas for materialisation, demonstrating the jacket's capacity to evolve and inspire. It oscillates between the adventurous spirit of a wise man’s jacket and the intellectual abstract painter’s daily wear. From our celebrated photographer Milad Abedi’s ready-to-wear camelhair piece to our co-founder Buzz’s tweed option, these garments convey different structural integrity and performance on the body.
100% Wool
A luxury Polo Coat designed in close collaboration with Simon Crompton of Permanent Style, arguably the leading authority of classic & luxury menswear. This fabric is woven from heavily textured British wool, providing both warmth and a soft, fluffy texture that imparts a hairy, fuzzy sensation. Ideal for the winter season, it is perfectly suited for more casual ensembles. Full article about the collaboration here, also a full feature breakdown here.
The fabric complements our signature soft structure. The button stance is designed in a specific proportion which draws attention to the masculine lapels and chest without the use of padded shoulders or heavy canvassing, which goes in line with our house aesthetic and takes away the old-school stuffiness and formality. The design also allows lapels to be folded up under the chin at ease, which is thoughtful and functional.
Product Details:
* Fully canvassed and lined
* 6-roll-2 button stance
* Peak lapels with signature handmade buttonholes, fully hand-padded
* Fully hand-sewn buttonholes
* Hand attached armhole
* Horn buttons
* Postbox (flapped patch) waist pockets with welted chest pocket
* Turnback cuffs
* Two internal chest pockets
* Single vent with Martingale half-belt detail
* Embroidered sprats’ head (triangular embroidery)
Also available in Camelhair and Herringbone
Size Chart
91% Wool, 9% Cashmere
This product belongs to the Artefacts, available in limited quantities only.
This exquisite layering piece is a pure joy to wear around the neck. Crafted from an ultra-light blend of wool and cashmere, it features a unique, loosely woven, unbalanced weave. The irregular criss-cross pattern is reminiscent of snakeskin, deviating from the typical basketweave or plain weave. Although the scarf is a solid colour overall, it is meticulously crafted from two tonal yarns in soft biscuit and beige, reflecting the house's forte in colour and texture. The scarf is elegantly finished with a selvage edge, leaving fringes for a relaxed, effortless look. Ideal for casual dressing, whether it be tonal or to accompany more statement colours. Each piece is meticulously woven and handled by skilled craftsmen in India.
Pair this with: knitted sweaters, Wingman Blouson in terra cotta and dark teddy, and Goodman Jacket in camelhair.
100% Camelhair
The Goodman Jacket captures the essence of modern day’s pared-down tailoring. Like the Lazyman Jacket's casual elegance, the structureless Goodman Jacket offers an additional touch of structure and form by using heavier fabrics. It drapes, gives shape, and its notched lapels and patch pockets offer a nod to timeless tailoring. Unlined and cut longer with straight lines, this jacket melds the best of a traditional blazer and a chore coat. Forgoing a chest pocket, it features unique double-side waist pockets that highlight perfect symmetry, accented by a small lapel loop.
A piece from deadstock textiles, this piece features a neat camelhair in a chunky twill weave with a natural finish. Unlike the smooth texture of conventional milled and brushed finishes, this raw finish offers a chunkier, textured twill weave that appears visually striking. Woven in a twill direction, it exudes a delectable texture in a diagonal pattern. It reminds one of the texture-heavy look of basketweave, but with the uneven facing in the weave structure, an extra touch of refinement is given to this elegant lounging piece. Initially more structured, it will mould to the body and soften with wear, becoming a beautifully shaped casual garment without the need for canvassing.
Pair this with: knitted sweaters, Flannel Pleated Wide Trousers in taupe, and Wool/Cashmere scarf.
Also available in other fabrics.
Size Chart
We are honored to create this collaboration model crafted by one of the last remaining English shoemakers, the formidable, dependable, failproof Crockett & Jones.
Hartford is an unlined two-eyelet chukka boot with minimal design, turning the spotlight on the toe shape and last. The unlined design of the shoe provides a comfortable and breathable fit, making it an excellent choice for warmer weather or for those who prefer a lighter shoe.
On a 224 last, the shoe features a slight almond-toed look, softly-rounded but not chubby, angular but not arrogant nor formal. The shoe last is also particularly well-proportioned, leaving enough room to keep the overall balance elegant with no compromises on elongating the vamp by the use of another last.
This design is done in snuff suede, with Crockett's famous city rubber sole, Goodyear welted. Box and individual shoe bags included.
Summary:
• UK sizing
• E fitting
• 224 last
• Snuff suede upper
• Unlined
• City rubber sole
If your size is not available, kindly email customercare@theanthology.net for special orders.
Creative Black Tie and Casualisation of Eveningwear Attire
As many style-driven evenings have become less stringent about adhering strictly to traditional rules, we believe there is now leeway and flexibility to embrace more fun and creativity. These events are not just celebratory gatherings where people express joy; they also represent culture in a significant way. Nonetheless, we still respect the most formal and traditional settings dedicated solely to black tie attire. Ultimately, it's about understanding the 'time and place'.
For those interested in delving deeper into black tie rules and innovative tips for creative black tie attire, we recommend checking out our previous articles: The Eveningwear Crack Code and The A Team's Eveningwear Lookbook .
Tartan dinner jackets are a thing, thanks to the Duke. Drawing inspiration from Scottish traditions, Buzz showcases a whimsical 'Asian plaid' with his sport jacket turned dinner jacket, paired with an eveningwear studded shirt, bow tie, and cummerbund by La Bowtique Bowties to complete the look. Daniel presents a similar take but with a neutral palette plaid, evoking a more American, Ralph Lauren-inspired aesthetic. Meanwhile, Arvin, being the playful character he is, opts to use his white sport jacket as a substitute for a traditional tuxedo jacket, adding his unique touch to the ensemble.
100% Silk
La Bowtique Bow ties boast a distinctive style — always full, never flat, imbued with dynamic lines that bring them to life. The design concept behind this collaboration finds its roots in aligning with The Anthology's house aesthetics, drawing inspiration from the soft angular curves, lines, waves, and parabolas presented in lapel arches, rolls, shoulder outlines, and jacket opening quarters. This bow tie also introduces an innovative technique, presenting unlined bowties with a small, elegant middle knot and large, exaggerated, contrasted wings. This unique approach captures the essence of old-world Hollywood glamour and a quintessential 50s-inspired aesthetic while seamlessly integrating modernity through its fluid silkiness and reduced substance via its unlined construction.
Every bow tie is self-tie, although they already come in its best tied form.
Size: 35cm-46cm (14”-18”)
100% Cotton
One of the three important dinner shirts, with each representing a different personality. This is the most classic of all. This design features our classic collar, with a bib front keeping the front part neat and structured at all times. This setup also allows you to adorn with your favorite studs for contrasts. Fabric is a 120 yarn count 2-ply fine cloth in plain white.
Complete the entire Eveningwear look.
Product Details:
Mother of Pearl buttons
Four studs front
22-23 stitches per inch (SPI)
Split yoke
Box gusset
French seams (on the sides and sleeves)
Misalignment under the armscye
Square double cuffs
Studs and cufflinks not provided
Care tips: Cold wash (below 30°C) by hand or machine, hang dry only
Delivery Time: Dispatch in 3 weeks
Remark: Due to the nature of this product, it is not eligible for return/exchange/refund
Size Chart
(Check out our video tutorial here)
100% Silk
The silk cummerbund by La Bowtique marks a refined evolution in design, tailored to our eveningwear and bow tie silhouette. It replaces the original five-panel construction with a sleeker four-panel configuration. Despite this reduction in panels, La Bowtique maintains the cummerbund's dimensions by widening each panel, ensuring it retains the same height and width that has come to define the brand's commitment to both style and functionality, always covering the entire waistband. Each layer is carefully paneled, stitched, and folded entirely by hand with a one-piece of flawless silk, a sophisticated and compulsory accessory that complements the bow tie's golden era aesthetic, appealing to those who appreciate the finer details in black-tie attire.
Size: 81cm-99cm (32”-39”)
100% Cotton
One of the three important dinner shirts, with each representing a different personality. This is the most understated of all. This design features our classic collar, with concealed fly front and and square double cuffs. The overall look is simple, unfussy. Fabric is a 120-yarn count 2-ply fine cloth in plain white.
Complete the entire Eveningwear look
Product Details:
Mother of Pearl buttons
22-23 stitches per inch (SPI)
Split yoke
Box gusset
French seams (on the sides and sleeves)
Misalignment under the armscye
Square double cuffs
Cufflinks not provided
Care tips: Cold wash (below 30°C) by hand or machine, hang dry only
Delivery Time: Dispatch in 3 weeks
Remark: Due to the nature of this product, it is not eligible for return/exchange/refund
Size Chart
(Check out our video tutorial here)
The Western Twist and Pop of Colours
‘Yeehaw, cowboy!’, infusing Western elements into European tailoring is akin to the concept of East Meets West. The Anthology meticulously curates fine things, drawing inspiration from all corners of the world where we deem fit and appropriate. The incorporation of Western belts, distressed denims, cowboy boots with sleek Cuban heels, and buffalo checks adds a distinctive flair to our looks.
Always remember this rule of thumb: Let one or, at most, two components of your outfit stand out. It's essential not to overdo it by making all elements compete for attention, as it can lead to a confused visual message. Much like in fine art and photography, distinguished and skillful dressers understand the importance of having a focal point. A single pop of colour is often sufficient to make a statement for the day. This principle is the foundation of our style playbook.
