A Breakdown On Chinos & Denim Silhouettes
If the first part of our story was about philosophy, this one is about proportion—the silent architecture of a garment. Silhouette defines attitude; it decides how a piece moves, breathes, and speaks. For us, denim and chinos are not afterthoughts to tailoring but their most natural counterparts, sharing the same precision of line and purpose of wear.
Revisit the lookbook and shop all curated looks here.
The Denim
Our denim begins where the craft is purest: Okayama, Japan. There. Brass rivets are set by hand; the chain-stitching hums with quiet confidence. Nothing is compromised. The result is a pair of denim that carries the patience of Japanese workmanship, refined through decades of repetition and reverence for process.
Mid-high rise, straight cut throughout
Cut with a mid-to-high rise and a clean, relaxed straight leg, the silhouette feels deliberate—structured yet generous, never chasing trends nor retreating into full nostalgia. The deeper crotch offers comfort and room to move. Every element is balanced, engineered to pair solo or pair seamlessly with tailoring without breaking its visual rhythm. One of the pet peeves when pairing denim is when they sit too low, they tend to show what we call a ‘Bermuda Triangle’ of a shirt. With thoughtful clothing that matters, we’d be sure to avoid that at all costs.
Crafted from 14oz red selvedge Japanese denim, the cloth blends American and Australian cotton, spun, woven on a vintage G10 shuttle loom, and finished with a singe finish entirely in Okayama. Despite the weight of the fabric, the denim we used features a softer, smoother handle and inner touch than the average denim of this calibre, which is the best representation of the house’s view on jeans—full of character but not overly difficult to wear in, integrating gracefully with Anthology’s approach to soft and comfortable clothing. It has a more apparent cotton hand touch rather than dry.
We offer two washes, both carefully tuned. The one-wash gives that soft, lived-in ease straight out of the box—breaking stiffness just enough to make wear effortless, and helping patina form faster with time. The medium wash recalls the honest fades of the ’90s: brighter highs, visible train tracks, and that washed-back indigo that sits beautifully against casual tailoring, both rugged and more summery.
Denim doesn’t need to be smart and excessively dressy; it simply needs to be right. Well-made denim jeans are companions, not statements—pieces that find their place alongside everything else you own, quietly holding the line between utility and sophistication.
The Chinos
If denim represents patience, then chinos speak of precision. For these, we returned to English cloth, a choice guided by history as much as by texture. The military heritage runs deep here—pure cotton, no compromise, woven at 400 grams, sturdy but never rigid. A brushed effect to the finish gives life and variation, softening the density of the weave so it moves naturally with the body.
Mid-high rise, flat front, straight with a slight taper, just a little
The cut mirrors our philosophy of balance. A mid-high rise sits naturally on the waist; the flat front keeps the line clean. The leg falls straight before tapering slightly toward the hem—never too slim, never too wide. It’s the silhouette of relevance, one that refuses to age out of style. It doesn’t shout for attention, yet it anchors any wardrobe effortlessly.
Seams go heavily lapped as a quiet but deliberate distinction. It marks the difference between a dress trouser and something more lived-in, casual, and easy. Look closer and you’ll notice the refinement continues inside—the finishing, the binding, the clean edges. It’s the kind of precision that only a craftsman would notice but every wearer can feel.
Available in three essential colours, each chosen to complement a range of garments without overlap, these chinos are designed to complete a wardrobe rather than compete within it. They are fitted with our house corozo buttons, dyed to match and polished to age gracefully, small details that together create quiet completeness.
The Essence of Fit
The through-line between both silhouettes is intent. Whether denim or chino, each pair shares the same mid-high rise, the same respect for proportion, the same pursuit of longevity. They are built not to impress but to belong—to jackets, to shirts, to the rhythm of daily life.
Good trousers should not ask for attention; they should earn it through wear. They are the pieces that shape a man’s posture and presence without ever announcing themselves. That is what we have sought in these silhouettes: the steady precision of balance, the subtle grace of fit, and the reassuring sense that, finally, something just works.
Revisit our lately released lookbook devoted to chinos & denim again.
A great time in the studio presenting these pieces with Lewis. Photography by Alex Natt, Hair by Thomas Bushnell. Special thanks to Stanley Strange for the antiquities.
Our Fall/Winter collection will also be unveiled next Thursday on November 6 at 12pm GMT. Sign up to our newsletter below for more upcoming news.